Wednesday 11 November 2015

Applied Photographic Techniques - Studio - WB 1


Rembrandt Lighting
Rembrandt lighting (also called 45-degree lighting) is a lighting technique that is used in studio portrait photography. It can be achieved using one light and a reflector, or two lights, and is popular because it is capable of producing images which appear both natural and compelling with a minimum of equipment. Rembrandt lighting is characterised by an illuminated triangle under the eye of the subject on the less illuminated side of the face. It is named for the Dutch painter Rembrandt who used this type of lighting. The key in Rembrandt lighting is creating the triangle or diamond shape of light underneath the eye. One side of the face is lit well from the main light source while the other side of the face uses the interaction of shadows and light, also known as chiaroscuro (an Italian word that’s literal translation is light-dark) to create this geometric form on the face. The triangle should be no longer than the nose and no wider than the eye. This technique may be achieved subtly or very dramatically by altering the distance between subject and lights and relative strengths of main and fill lights.

  


Rembrandt lighting can be created using natural light source too, Positioning your model in a direction towards to window light/ sun light will create the illuminated triangle on the cheek.  

Examples of lighting set ups:

 theboudoirplace.wordpress.com


 digital-photography-school.com


 samanthawild15.blogspot.com




Rim Lighting

A rim light is positioned behind the subject and facing toward the camera. It illuminates the edges of the subject to give a glow and to separate them from the background. With the glow around the head you get a halo effect. The rim light is slightly higher than the other lights but you must make sure that the subject is blocking the light from the view of the camera all you need is glow around the back.


Examples of lighting set ups:

Using one light: www.sylights.com


Using 2 lights: photography.tutsplus.com


Using 3 lights: www.davidjameswilliams.com



Images of rim lighting technique:

Using rim lighting makes the subjects stand out and looks really effective. I personally like rim lighting for the effect it gives, I can try using this style of lighting in my own portraits.


  
www.silverashphotography.co.uk   www.lightstalking.com         www.perspectives.co.nz


Clamshell Lighting


Clamshell lighting is used in fashion and beauty photography mostly as this type of lighting 

creates a flattering and glowing effect. The photographer would use 2 lights source from the

front to illuminate the model/subject. This will minimize shadows and give that radiant glow

effect. You can see this lighting style used by beauty and fashion campaigns, 

a way of identifying the technique is you can see the the 2 catch lights in the models eyes 

this identify's clamshell lighting. You can also achieve this lighting by using one light and a 

reflector to get the same effect.


Examples of lighting set ups

www.lighting-essentials.com



http://www.edverosky.net/blog/clamshell-lighting/




http://digital-photography-school.com/the-killer-clamshell-a-two-light-setup-guide/




digital-photography-school.com


Back lighting

In lighting design, back lighting is the process of illuminating the subject from the back. In other words, the lighting instrument and the viewer face each other, with the subject in between. This creates a glowing effect on the edges of the subject, while other areas are darker. The backlight can be a natural or artificial source of light. When artificial, the back light is usually placed directly behind the subject in a 4 point lighting set up. A back light, which lights foreground elements from the rear, is not to be confused with a background light, which lights background elements (such as scenery).
In the context of lighting design, The back light is sometimes called hair or shoulder light, because when lighting an actor or an actress, backlighting makes the edges the subject's hair glow if the hair is fuzzy. This can create an angelic halo type effect around the head. Filmmakers sometimes use this to show that the actor is good or pureTelevision productions often use this effect in soap operas, where it has become something of a cliché of the genre. It is also sometimes called the kicker or rim light.
Backlighting helps separate subject and background. Live theatre lighting designs often use backlighting to give a more three-dimensional appearance to actors or set elements, when front lighting alone would give a flat, two-dimensional look. In chiaroscuro effects in painting, such as the candlelit paintings by Joseph Wright of Derby (illustration, left), backlighting helps separate subjects in the foreground and emphasizes depth.
In photography, a back light (often the sun) that is about sixteen times more intense than the key light produces a silhouette. A fill flash used with a backlit subject yields more even lighting.

The vertical angle of the back light can change the effect. A low angle can make the light hit the camera lens, causing lens flare. A high angle can make the subject's nose extend out from the mostly vertical shadow of the head, producing a potentially unwanted highlight in the middle of the face.

http://www.studiolighting.net/back-lighting-studio-lighting-setup/
   

Monday 2 November 2015

Advanced Pinhole Camera - WB 2,7

Making a Pin Hole Camera With A Lens:

I am looking at creating an advanced pinhole camera which includes a lens added on to the box. I'll be using a magnifying glass as my lens, with a piece of metal which will have a precision cut pin hole. This will be where the light enters to travel through the box to hit the light sensitive paper. The cut will be a 2mm hole this is easier number to work with in working out the calculations for the f stop number so for example 240mm divided by 2mm (hole size) = aperture of F120. Another important area to get right before making the box is to figure out the focal length with the magnifying glass this will determine what size box you are going to need. As there needs to be enough depth for the image to be in focus what ever that works out to be. My magnifying as a focal length of 24 so I need to ensure my box is long at least that deep in order for me to produce a focused image. 
To work out the exposure values I'm going to make an exposure wheel which will then give me all the information I need once I know my f number and focal length. 


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=pinhole+camera+exposure+value&espv=2&biw=1040&bih=758&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMIxK2DrM_xyAIVhi4aCh0Q7wr_#imgrc=aXdvyhFfpDWy1M%3A

Materials needed for making your camera:

Box (Depends on my lens focal point to determine the size)
Black gaffer tape
Thin piece of metal with a pinhole cut out (2mm hole)
Scissors
Screw lidded top to cover the pinhole
Black paint
Magnifying glass
Super glue
Paint brush
Drill piece

Making my camera:

On constructing my camera I first used black gaffa tape to light proof the outside of the box and the lid. I then used black matt paint to paint the inside of the box. On the lid of the box I cut out a square hole this is where the aluminium plate will sit with the 2mm hole drilled out. With the plate stuck down and taped round (not taping over the hole) I super glued the magnifying glass down over the plate to create the lens. After that set I then glued and fixed down the screw lid this will act as my shutter, I made sure to gaffa tape the lid and screw part to make sure no light leaks through. I then fixed inside the box a black cardboard sheet which curves round with it curving will add some nice depths to the images once I start taking photos.  





My finished advanced pinhole camera.



Basic Pin Hole Cameras - WB 2,7

How to create a basic pin hole camera

To create a basic pin hole camera is easy you can use pretty anything which acts as a chamber to capture the image. The object needs to be light proof and which isn't reflective inside. Easiest thing to use is a box, you need to cut a hole in one side of the box and with a tin or aluminum piece of metal pierce it with pin this will act as your aperture to allow the light to pass in. You will need to get either black tape or a piece of blue tak to cover the hole before your ready to expose and after you have exposed. In the opposite side of the chamber you will need to gain access to load some light sensitive paper remember this will have to be done in the dark with no light source around as this would effect the light sensitive paper and it would be no good. AS long as you make sure your box is completely light poof with either black tape and black matt paint you are ready to go and experiment with your box pin hole camera. You can experiment with different exposure times and so forth to create different images with different effects.

Examples of basic cameras:

 
janneinosaka.blogspot.com


hweeling.blogspot.com


petapixel.com




Examples of pinhole images:

Image result for pinhole
https://benpartridge.wordpress.com/portfolio/photography/pinhole-photography/



news.open2view.com
















www.pinholephotography.org

Getting to know Dad

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-22150973
2.11.2015

Heres a video showing how you can make a 6 month long exposure camera using a beer can!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtZOWEB_wcI&feature=youtu.be